Vegan travellers

Ethiopia is often called a vegan paradise. Orthodox Christians, about four in ten Ethiopians, fast for 180 to 250 days a year: every Wednesday and Friday and through the long fasts before Easter and Christmas. On fasting days they eat no meat, milk, butter or eggs, so the country has a deep tradition of plant-based cooking, and almost every restaurant serves ye-tsom migib, fasting food. Just say you're fasting or don't eat meat and people will know what you need. More on Wikipedia.

• BeyaynetuA platter of several fasting dishes on injera. The easiest order.
• ShiroSmooth, spiced chickpea stew; a staple everywhere.
• Misir watRed lentils in berbere, the red chilli spice mix.
• Kik alichaMild yellow split peas with turmeric.
• GomenCollard greens with garlic and ginger.
• AtkiltCabbage, carrot and potato.
• FosoliaGreen beans and carrots.
• AzifaCold green lentil salad with mustard and lemon.
• FulMashed fava beans, a favourite breakfast.
• InjeraThe sour teff flatbread under everything; vegan.

Photos: Beyaynetu, Dawityirga (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Shiro, Yonihahasis (CC BY-SA 4.0) · Misir wat, Ji-Elle (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Kik alicha, Ji-Elle (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Gomen, Ji-Elle (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Atkilt, Ji-Elle (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Ful, David Stanley from Nanaimo, Canada (CC BY 2.0) · Injera, Edsel Little (CC BY-SA 2.0)

• Ask for fasting food (ye-tsom): it's vegan by definition, while the same dish on a non-fasting day may be cooked with spiced butter (niter kibbeh).
• Fasting food is everywhere on Wednesdays, Fridays and during the long fasts. In the 50 days after Orthodox Easter there's no Wednesday and Friday fast, so fewer places cook it, but most can still make it if you ask.
• Some restaurants serve fish on fasting days. If you don't eat it, say so.
• Watch for butter in breakfast dishes like firfir and kinche, milk in macchiato, and honey in tej (honey wine).
• Supermarkets sell lentils, chickpea flour (shiro), fruit and vegetables; local markets are cheaper.

• I'm fasting (no animal products)Tsomegna negn
• Is there fasting food?Ye-tsom migib alle?
• I don't eat meatSiga albelam
• Without butterYale kibe